HEMEROCALLIS: (GREEK) BEAUTY FOR A DAY
CULTIVAR:
A plant that is officially named and registered. It can be created either by an accident of nature or by breeders and is perpetuated under cultivation.
PLOIDY:
DIP - diploid (2 identical sets of 11 chromosomes = 22 chromosomes)
POLYPLOID - (more than 2 sets of 11 chromosomes - e.g.. triploid, tetraploid)
TRI - triploid (3 identical sets of 11 chromosomes = 33 chromosomes)
TETRA - tetraploid (4 identical sets of 11 chromosomes = 44 chromosomes)
SEASONS:
EE - extra-early season (bloom time is 4 weeks or more before mid season)
E - early season (bloom time that is 2 - 4 weeks before mid season)
EM - early to mid-season (bloom time 1 - 2 weeks before mid season)
M - mid season (peak daylily season - May in deep south. Late June in Tennessee)
ML - mid to late season (bloom time 1 - 2 weeks after mid season)
L - late season (bloom time 2 - 4 weeks after mid season)
VL - very late season (bloom time more than 2 - 4 weeks after mid season)
Re - rebloomer (plant sends up scapes in more then one bloom season)
FLOWER DESCRIPTION:
BIC - bicolor (petals and sepals are totally different colors)
BIT - bitone (petals and sepals are different shades of the same color)
BL - blend (petals and sepals are of 2 distinct colors that are mixed)
POLY - polychrome (petals and sepals are of 3 distinct colors that are mixed)
SELF - self (petals and sepals are of same coloring)
THR - throat (center of flower)
EYE - eyezone - the area circling the throat that is of a different color than the petals and sepals:
Band: A darker shade occurs on the petals but not the sepals.
Eye: A darker shade appears on both petals and sepals.
Halo: A band of color appears on petals and/or sepals, but is faint or only lightly visible
Watermark (WM): An area of a lighter shade in the eyezone
MR - mid-rib (centerline of petal)
F - fragrant
EXT - extended bloom life (at least 16 hours)
NOC - nocturnal (blooms open late in afternoon)
DI - diurnal (normal day blooming type)
O.E. - opens evenings
DBL - double (having more than 6 segments)
SPD - spider (having a length to width ration of at least 5:1)
MINI - miniature (blooms of less than 3 inches in diameter)
SM - small (blooms of 3 1/2 to 4 inches in diameter)
SPIDER - a daylily whose petal length to width ratio is at least 4.0:1
UF - Unusual Form - must display Unusual Form characteristics on at least 3 petals or 3 sepals:
crispate: (pinched, twisted, or quilled floral segments)
cascading: (narrow curling or cascading segments)
spatulate: (segments markedly wider at the end like a kitchen spatula).
FOLIAGE DESCRIPTION:
D - dormant (leaves die back in winter)
SEV - semi-evergreen (EV during most of winter in the south, D in the north)
EV - evergreen (retains leaves through out the year)
DAYLILY PLANTING INFORMATION:
WHEN TO PLANT: Daylilies can be planted any time of the year after the last spring frost, as long as they have time to establish before cold weather, or approx. 6 weeks before the first hard frost.
WHERE TO PLANT: Daylilies need at least 6 hours of sun per day. Full sun is best but they will tolerate partial shade. The darker colored varieties may hold their colors better with some afternoon shade.
WHAT SOIL TYPE: Daylilies will grow in a wide range of soil types. They can grow in a wide range of soil pHs but seem to prefer a pH between 4.4 and 7, with 6 to 6.5 being ideal. Spade or till the soil to a depth of approx. 12 inches. To improve soil conditions you can mix compost, sand, or peat moss into the tilled soil. Daylilies should be planted in well-drained soil, as they may not survive cold weather with soggy wet feet.
HOW TO PLANT: If you have purchased bareroot plants and can not plant them as soon as they arrive, remove plants and arrange them so they can get some air. Plants left in a package are susceptible to mold and rot. Keep plants in a shady, preferably cool place until ready to plant. It is not necessary but is helpful to soak bareroot plants in clean water; you may add a soluble plant food to the water. Soak for 2-6 hours before planting. Dig a hole larger than the root mass. Plant so that the crown, where the roots and leaves meet, is ½ to 1 inch below the soil surface. Firm the soil and water well. Keep watered well for the first month. Once established daylilies can withstand drought conditions well, but watering regularly during droughts will improve blooming. Plant daylilies with an adequate amount of space between plants to promote good air circulation. Space most daylilies at least 2 feet apart from other plants, vigorous varieties may be planted 3 feet apart and set miniatures 15 to 18 inches apart
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR DAYLILIES:
WATER is essential for peak performance of your daylilies. Adequate water is important in the spring to produce scapes and buds and in the summer for a new crop of flowers every day. Daylilies like about 1" of water a week. You may need to FERTILIZE your newly planted daylilies 2 to 3 weeks after planting them. We recommend that you have your soil analyzed to get the proper balance fertilizer for you soil. Once your daylilies are established, fertilize 1 to 2 times a year, once in the spring and if needed again in the fall. MULCHING in your daylilies is good to improve the soil; help control weeds, retains moisture and it protects plants during the hot summer and cold winter months. We recommend you use aged mulch as fresh mulch may change the pH of the soil as it rots. GROOMING your daylilies by dead heading the old blooms and by trimming the foliage will give your garden a neat appearance. The dead foliage in winter provides a natural cold insulator for the plant so if you remove it, replace it with mulch if possible. It is now thought that daylily rust may over winter under dead foliage so if you have had rust removing the foliage is best. DIVIDING your daylilies will be necessary to ensure optimal blooms. We recommend you dig and divide clumps about every 3 to 5 years. After digging the clump remove as much dirt as possible (you may need to soak the plant in a bucket of water). Cut the foliage back to about 6 to 8 inches. Always try to divide clumps into double or triple fans. Try separating the clump by grabbing the base and twisting the roots to loosen and pull the fans apart. If they do not easily come apart use a sharp knife and cut the clumps apart. Replant the new divisions as you would a new plant.